A few oservatuons that haven’t made the main blog……
The Japanese people are so lovely, friendly and helpful. They are very polite, respectful, precise, and love a queue.
One couple mentioned they were somewhere looking lost and a business man approached them to ask if they could assist and actually accompanied them to where they were headed.
Many times while taking a selfie someone would offer to take a photo. They do though have to count down from 3 each time they snap!
Bowing – they greet and show their respect to each other through bowing. At first it feels like a tourist/service thing, until you see friends greeting each other and you can see they are very friendly respectful bows.
The children are very quiet and well behaved. In a school group you will often find them walking in a very neat line of pairs, with girls one side and boys the other.
We accidentally ended up near the end of a school line entering the Nagasaki museum. As we looked down in to the spiral entrance full of their two by two, it felt like a weird dream.
Tipping – it is not even a thing here. A guide said, if you are really pleased with some service, they will be more than happy just being told how good it was.
Money tray – anywhere you are making a payment will have a little tray to put your money in.
Handbag holders – everywhere has somewhere to put your bag. Either a box under your chair, or a hook under the bar if you are sitting up on a stool. They are very proactive in showing you where to put your bag. At the shinkansen ticket office there was even a ledge beside each desk to put your bag!
Handbag charms – every woman, and some blokes had something dangling from their bag. Generally along the lines of something fluffy, mostly childish not elegant!
There are not many bins around. There is generally a recycle bin by a drinks machine or a general bin by a food seller. People naturally take their rubbish with them. It is generally done to take rubbish with you and therefore you rarely see rubbish on the floor.
You don’t walk with food or drink. If you buy something to eat at a street seller, you eat it right there.
When you see stairs to go up there will likely be an escalator not far away!
I had in mind they were ahead of us, however perhaps they are not. Certainly not when it comes to plastic. They are romping through plastic bottles, the lids not attached, plastic bags often are given without need, and straws are still plastic.
Ferris wheels – every town has one!
How to tell foreigners at a temple – they appear to take a photo of a sign, then put their head sideways – when translating vertical writing, Google then puts it sideways in the same shape as the original!
I couldn’t blog without mentioning the toilets!
Toilets, unlike bins, are plentiful and always clean. When out and about you never wonder where the next will be. You will see 10 before you need to go.
Of course, the extra buttons. Front, back, wand wash, privacy sound, all come as standard.
Many have heated seats and most have automatic flushing. Some have the water movement privacy sound automatic.
The posh toilets have automatic lid opening!
The Japanese in general are a lover of wordy signs and information. There are so many information labels in the toilets.
Just in case you can’t work out which is the bin!
Lost in translation!
Baby seats.
Make sure you don’t bash them with the door! So glad they told me that! Well, I assume they mean with the door?
We had read that hand driers are not great and to take a small towel. It is so warm they dry within minutes so we didn’t bother carrying them for long, though many Japanese ladies carried one.
Many had a separate makeup area for the ladies, and quite often larger than the hand washing area.
The Koreans are similar but not to the same extent. They do have the buttons and heated seats in some but not all toilets.
Thanks for reading, and until the next trip, sayōnara!
Reader warning – this is a long one, and apologies for the lack of visuals!
A very early start to catch a coach heading north. On checking in with the driver, we are told in which seats we need to sit.
Gamaksan Suspension Bridge, 150m long, 45 meters above the Silmari Valley. Did I mention I like bridges? This is up there in my favourites! What’s more is that Mark made it over and back fine!
Some of the following comments in respect of the DMZ visit are from the SK telling of the position and therefore could well be biased.
When Japan surrendered in August 1945 after the bombings, they retreated from their 35 year colonisation of Korea.
A line was then drawn at the 38th parallel dividing the country to allow for the US to occupy the south and USSR to occupy the north, with independence being the aim. Both were able to withdraw control by the end of 1949.
On 25 June 1950, NK invaded SK. The war continued for 3 years with the border moving very much over the time period depending on who was stronger and which countries were supporting them. At one point SK pretty much only had Busan, then shortly after NK had very little. By 1951, the border was more or less back to the original position.
After 2 years of negotiation, on 27 July 1953 the Korean Armistice Agreement was signed freezing the war. It is not a peace agreement. This allowed the exchange of prisoners and the one off opportunity to cross the border, on what was later called the peace bridge, to return home.
A 4km wide (2km each side of the border) Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) was also created between the countries.
Our first stop is at Imjingak. A ropeway over the river. Whilst it looks murky, it is apparently clean and home to yellow puffer fish.
Afterwards, our guide talks us through some history, and much of those that did not take the opportunity to return home, as they were either too poor or too young to know where home was, and some not able to know how. Many were orphaned through the war years.
There are a number of memorials (our guide calls them memoriers) here that people visit where disconnected from their family. The people talk very much of looking forward to a unification. The short film talked of an era of unification, though the American accent suggested the word “error”! I am not aware discussions are happening.
The peace bridge, only about 10% of it remains.
The “iron horse” that took people across the border on the peace bridge.
This is an army train that was allowed across the border after the 1953 crossing was finished. Many people attempted jumping it to try to get across.
We pass through a checkpoint in to the CCL (Civilian Control Line) where our passports are viewed, hence the importance of us sitting in particular seats on the coach. A lady also joins the coach, we assume an official.
From this point we are not allowed photos from the coach, or food or drinks other than water. Photos will be allowed in certain areas.
Shortly after crossing the unification bridge we pass the closed toll gate to NK and enter the CCZ (Civilian Control Zone) by crossing a blue line on the road.
Since the 1953 agreement, four tunnels have been found by SK that cross the border. A defector from NK had informed the authorities of there being tunnels. For NK defectors to get to SK, they have to first go to China, then another country and then in to SK.
SK then needed to locate the tunnels. Our guide said they did this based on the farmers saying they had felt the TNT explosions. There is also discussion on drilling boreholes and seeing if water fills the hole or if it disappears totally, suggesting a tunnel.
NK deny creating the tunnels.
We are visiting the third tunnel that was discovered. We are not allowed anything electronic with us, so sorry, no pics. You can see some pics if you look at the location on Google maps.
SK have added a tunnel to allow tourists to visit. It is a 358m long steep slope all the way down, very hard on the knees, and quite a slog back up. Many on our coach did not make it all the way down. I am quite surprised they have not made it access friendly. The picture mentions a monorail, we’re not sure what happened to that!
Once down in the actual tunnel, it is not very high and very rough cut, thankful for the hard hats. It is at a slight gradient to stop water collecting. That said it was quite splashy!
We are able to walk quite some distance under the DMZ zone to the 3rd blockade, so 170m short of the actual border. You could see through the second and first blockades.
The New Dora Observatory has two floors pointing to NK, together with a third, open floor, that has telescopes. No photos are allowed except of the front of the old observatory. Again, check Google maps for photos.
Both countries blast each other with sound across the border. SK plays radio. If NK is making noise then the risk level is increased and the third floor may not be available to tourists.
The view seemed quite hazy, though our guide considered it clear visibility.
From the observatory you could clearly see the edge of the DMZ with guard posts and soldiers, and a good distance in to NK with many buildings, including the JSA which straddles the border, matching North and South flags, and a propaganda village where no-one lives.
You can see the actual border, where the trees stop. There is also a sign in the hills that our guide likened to the Hollywood sign.
The last stop is Unification village and the opportunity for some food and shopping. Ginseng grown in the region is very popular, and expensive.
This snail cream came recommended from a guide. She said it is hard to get hold of and very expensive anywhere outside the DMZ.
We tried the rice wine, and yes, it is certainly different to sake. We like sake!
Back in to town and checking out Hongdae Street aka Red Road, the young and trendy area near the university, with street performers.
One chap we watched was amazing, covering BTS, Ed Sheran, Jacko, Bruno Mars. Such a range. The Hozier cover was brilliant!
Time to check out the Korean Fried Chicken. Sooo lovely. We were going to order two dishes, lucky we didn’t!
Mark ordered a bottle of soju thinking it a beer, however it is a popular local rice based liquer that our guide had mentioned in Busan. At 16% a bottle has quite some kick, as Mark found out!
Headed down to Banpo Bridge that has a water lights display from the side every evening. Unfortunately rain stopped the show.
You know it rains a lot when restaurants and hotels have an umbrella drier!
Instead, we checked out a bar overlooking the river. My wine however was brought out and measured in front of us by pouring in to the glass whilst on scales. Different!
Good morning! Yet another impressive bridge to pass on the way in to port. This time Incheon near Seoul, the third biggest city in SK.
Slow processing through security lead for a very slow disembarkation. On the way out, the items owned by passengers that they were not allowed on board. 130 knives apparently!
Strangely, there is an Uber area, but no waiting taxi rank. The assistance arrange ubers for passengers as the plan A.
Our uber driver, however, had not checked where we were going when he accepted us. As an Incheon registered taxi, he was not allowed to go to Seoul. We therefore had to get back out when he realised! He wasn’t happy and was still parked nearby as we left in another!
The driving style is very interesting. Let’s just say I think this new driver caught up the time we lost with the failed ride!
Our taxi took us over the bridge we had gone under. It was 20km long! Mark asked how long it has been here, the driver responded that it takes 7 mins!
Lotte World Tower, the tallest building in SK and the 6th tallest in the world at 554.5m, and therefore the tallest we have been in. Previously it was the International Commerce Centre in Hong Kong which currently ranks at number 13.
On coming out of the lift, rather than be greeted with the view, you go in to watch a short video, at the end of which the screen slides up to the ceiling to reveal the view. Great concept!
The greenery behind is the Olympic park.
A lovely lunch on the highest floor 123 at 500m. Surprisingly, not very busy. Amazing food.
Black sesame bread we think. Tasty though.
If you’ve done the maths, you’ll observe another 50m above. In this space, there is a high wire course you could do between the two towers, however it was closed. I’m not sure even I would have managed that!
More clever ideas here on road crossings, such as red or green on the floor to confirm if okay to cross, and umbrellas to shade those waiting.
Also, separate zebras for each crossing direction so that you are not having to swerve those coming the other way. Shibuya could do with that!
Needs no explaining!
The Starfied Library.
K Star Road.
The DDP, museum and art space.
They are very good at odd shaped buildings.
The local temple
Korean barbecue, had to be done!
The local huge HBAF shop. If you know, you know!
Olive Young, with so many branches and so many people carrying their bags, first highly spoken of in Busan by our guide, and then assimilated by someone using chatgpt to Sephora. We went in a couple to see what the fuss was about. They were so busy! I would liken it to a mix of Superdrug with the messiness of Primark.
Today’s alerts brought the news of the collapse of a flyover that was being demolished. The alerts on the traffic effect however were more than plentiful.
Finally a lazy day, well sort of. Still no lay in.
A lesson in sushi rolling. The first time either of us had tried it. The chef was very interesting and informative.
We were rather pleased with our work. It tasted good too!
A tasting of the Macallan colours range. The 12, 15 and 18. Nice to try a little Scotch. We normally stay on Bourbon.
Even though we are out at sea, we are still getting phone alerts!
A little jacuzzi time.
We came back from the jacuzzi to find our dance friends sat on the next seats. It turns out they are from Mechelin, Belgium where Peaches’ husband is from, and we visited the year of their wedding!
Busan is the second largest city in the Republic of Korea, it was the temporary capital during the Korean war, and has the 6th biggest port in the world.
We had been told that Google Maps does not work, so to downloaded their app Naver. It looks like it is just the directions part that doesn’t work.
Our guide today is Chae. He talked for the whole journey, we learnt so much!
Half the population of South Korea live in Seoul. More than half of the SK population have no religion 30% are Christian and 15% are Buddhist. There is also Shamanism.
Rice wine is the main traditional drink in Korea, slighty white in colour. This is not the same as Japanese sake, a clear drink.
Shortly after leaving the port, we drove past a US military base. It is not shown on their map apps, even though you can see it from the highway!
You can see on their app Naver that it is just trees!
Per Google.
Big companies also own building groups and build lots of matching very tall apartment blocks. You will often see the company name on them.
They seriously bling their coaches here!
Korea has a system of sending alert messages to all phones in an area. The guide suggested they possibly use it too much for things that are not necessary. The whole coach received one about parking at a major event nearby.
A ropeway to a height of 500m. Absolutely stunning views of the town. Then a short hike through the forest to the Geumjeongsanseong Mountain Fortress South Gate. The largest fortress in Korea, with the original dating back to BC.
The pine trees have trouble with infections from insects. A number that we pass are marked to show they have been vaccinated.
Interesting to hear this is the first time they have done this hike with a group rather than a private tour.
Apparently hiking used to be just for old people, however now it is trendy with youngsters. They talk of “k-hiking”.
Beomeosa Temple on the side of the Geumjeongsan mountain, one of the larget temples in Busan. There were services this morning to celebrate Buddha’s birthday, however it was still very busy by the time we arrived. Thankfully our coach driver knew a police officer that let him park in the road.
The queue for the public bus to leave was a third of a mile!
Back to town, and exploring downtown. The 168 steps, so high and steep there is a monorail!
More amazing food. Mark-friendly beef wellington and a lobster tail each!
Tonight’s show is called On Broadway, of course we watched it twice!
The Sky Lounge has fun games often hosted by the entertainment manager Dave, who is Angela’s husband, very Stephen Mulhern! The whisper game very funny, guests v officers, with the guests managing to get the end message correct even though it was wrong half way through!
Silent disco part 2. I found us a spot, this time in the martini bar and when Mark rocked up we realised we were dancing with the same couple from the other night!
A little scary if you don’t already know they are fishing for squid.
All that dancing lead Mark to a little late night trip to the buffet. The cheese pizza was amazing!
Kokura Castle, Kitakyushu, originally built in 1569, the latest version of it built since WWII. The fifth storey is larger than the fourth.
The view is from the Japanese gardens in the grounds.
A somewhat more modern castle inside, with a cafe on the top floor and interactive exhibitions.
Don’t worry, I let him live!
Tanga Market
They seem very modern with their street art!
This is the first Celebrity cruise ship to dock at Fukuoka. Whilst a large city, it is much further east than most tourists travel and therefore they do not often get to practice their English, so not many actually speak English.
Their main company here is Toto, which if you have been here, you will know the name from every single toilet in the country. They even have a museum in town!
The Japanese are very precise people, very friendly and helpful and they love a queue. They also like to talk about the weather, so in some ways very similar to the British.
On the way back we did some of the journey on the AH1, Asian Highway 1 which runs from Tokyo to Kapıkule in Turkey.
At 11.02 am on 9 August 1945 the US dropped an atomic bomb and it exploded 500m above Nagasaki.
Whilst Nagasaki was on the list of intended cities, the original target that day was Kokura, however poor visibility meant it not possible and they headed instead for Nagasaki. Poor visibilty also nearly prevented the bombing, however a brief break appeared in the clouds and the opportunity was taken.
79 towns were destroyed in total.
The atomic bomb museum we found much more informative than at Hiroshima.
It was decided to bomb Japan in 1943 before any bombs had been made and tested, and of course before we knew the war would still be ongoing!
This time the bomb was a “fat man” containing plutonium 239.
They had various examples of “shadows” where the bomb blast flash scorched everything except where something else was in front of it. This is a fence post where there was plants in front.
Very interesting to see a pictorial reflection of atomic bombs held by countries and test statistics.
The hypocentre.
A stroll through the peace park with various tributes. The ruins of the prison, and the peace bell.
The peace monument.
A cab on a route somewhat off the beaten track, tiny winding roads uphill through houses, thankful not to meet traffic coming the other way.
The view over the city is very impressive.
Mihara Garden, home to Kazuyuki Ishihara. If you don’t know who he is you are not a Chelsea Flower Show fan. Our late queen called him the “green magician”.
It is exactly how I expected it to be, and, probably because of him, how I expected other Japanese gardens to be.
Such a well balanced planting with textures, colours, great attention to detail, and of course running water and a small tea room.
He still has the mini from the 2016 garden that won the president’s award, and the actual award.
Outside of the main garden, there is also an extended area where he keeps his bonsai and some cute shops and a restaurant.
Edible tea in Giverny within the complex, which is French for flower shop. Mr Ishihara originally had a flower shop before garden design. Very nice, great view and the decor very impressive.
I don’t think they often have English visitors, so they cracked out their Beatles albums!
The Sanno Shrine. A shinto shrine south east of the hypocentre. The original shrine was taken out by the bomb together with the third and fourth tori gates. The first gate survived the blast as it was parallel to the blast direction, though is missing now due to a traffic accident. The second was half destroyed, however the half remaining you can see the top section has twisted and no longer in alignment.
Also, the side of the upright facing the blast has lost much of the inscription.
A photo before the blast.
Part of the third gate used as a memorial. The colourful works left in memory and found at all memorials are made of paper cranes, now considered a sign of peace.
These huge camphor trees surprisingly sprang back to life some time after the blast.
A visit to the shrine of course. At each shrine and temple you can collect a goshuin. This is a unique, hand-brushed calligraphy stamp and red seal. The one here however we only found as someone else was collecting theirs. It was a closed door without signage, which turned out to be someone’s house!
Mount Inasa at 333m having caught the ropeway. Amazing views all around.
The observatory is a popular evening viewpoint. Apparently you could press a button and switch on a light beside the peace statue!
Spectacles bridge, real name Megane bridge. The oldest stone arch bridge in Japan built about 1634. A pedestrian bridge.
Sweet potato and black sesame ice creams in a very pretty China Town.
Most evenings the special is a Japanese dish. This was breaded pork in a bulldog sauce. Absolutely lovely!
What an amazing show, sound of silence followed by bring me to life just topped it. Ok, so we may have gone to see it twice!
Kelly the astronomer is back, this time we are looking at the moon through his telescope, firstly at x25, then x50. Circled is the sea of tranquility.
A few more new facts:
Venus is the brightest and then Jupiter.
We always see the same side of the moon therefore the moon turn matches the orbit. This is often the case with moons.
Back to the big dipper, if you follow the handle it takes you to acrturis, the fourth brightest
A ferry to Sakurajima island, which has 11 volcanoes. It erupts every day. On 8th May there was quite a big eruption.
A rainy/cloudy day so we couldn’t see the top.
You are not allowed within 2km of the craters. We visited the observation point at 373m high and Sabo visitor centre which is very informative.
Evacuation levels and routes. Various ports are lined up if it is required to leave the island.
There was a small earthquake at 10.11 while at the centre.
We return to the bottom of the island and the clouds have lifted, a natural foot spa.
Today’s random snack is a fried horse mackerel and a fried chicken with plum and perilla leaf, tasted fab!
Back on the mainland, it is a short walk in to town.
Grass tramways.
Saigi Takamori, the last samurai.
By the statue of the samurai a group of Japanese kids asked us (we decided) to take a photo of them with the statue. As they posed some adults ran in, they didn’t seem to mind however we knew them from the ship!
We then took photos ourself. The kids returned again saying something else at us. They wanted a photo if us with the statue!
Huge koi.
They say that Japan is a very safe country and you are very unlikely to have anything stolen…… except umbrellas!
Museum of the Meiji Restoration, interesting to hear that the Japanese flag was from here and the story behind it. Also, that the national anthem was composed by an English man. The style, however, was too different, therefore they changed it to match their music style.
The uber driver back to the ship was a chatter in that he had a cute little gadget to translate his voice.
Our room is in this position, however on the starboard side.
A full band with dancers to see us off. Interesting to see them having to cover some instruments from the rain!
Firstly in interesting talk from the captain……. “Please don’t call it a boat! Ships have boats on. Boats can’t have ships on!”
Quite surprising that part of the route plan is about where and at what speed you can dump waste water etc
A talk from Kelly on auroras. They generally run on an 11 year cycle. That said, the high level of activity in May 2024 was a little earlier than expected and more lively too.
He explained what happens in a solar flare and that the aurora colour is based on which gas electron or molecule it is that is turning in to light energy.
Those turning in to light energy in higher level gas give green, then red, blue and pink as you get closer to earth.
He also explained that we use a different part of the eye at night. One that is not good at distinguishing colours, eg not easy to find your red car in the car park, as you do not see the colour. An aurora therefore has to be really strong for the human eye to see the colour.
The best time to view the northern lights is near the solstice, ie April May Sep Oct
Later, we were able to look at the sun through his telescope. You could see the various sun spots, each the size of earth.
Tonight is evening chic. Photographers at every turn, stopped for one and ended up in a full on photo shoot.
A photo with the captain. Considering his talk earlier, I was surprised to find him not chatty, only polite chat, and not particularly photogenic.
Georgeios head of housekeeping, who we had chatted with before.
Kristine is back from her day off. She gave us her full version of creep. It’s up there with Rodney!
Brilliant show based on films and musicals from the in house team.
It wouldn’t be a chic night without a silent disco. Such fun!
The best seats right at the back of the ship this morning!
There is such amazing service, especially in the dining room. You are often seated in the same area so that you have the same waiters and sommelier, meaning you end up chatting and laughing with them all.
Interesting to hear our main waiter say he has mate in the kitchen that holds him back the meals he likes!
Miyajima island, the oyster capital of the country, and considered a sacred island in the shinto religion.
When the shrine was built, you couldn’t build on the island, as it was considered it would damage the deity, therefore the shrine and the tori gate are in the sea. At high tide, they are considered to be “floating”.
The wild deer are a little too friendly. You are not allowed to feed them, though they will come after any food or even eat paper, tickets etc!
On boarding the ferry to return to the mainland, we discover that Richard and Jo are at the shrine! What a near miss!
Momiji manjū a local popular snack.
Hiroshima is the 10th largest city in Japan with an impressive 2,500 bridges. Out of a population of 1.2m, 300k people work for Mazda, being the largest company in the city.
At 8.15 am on 6 August 1945, the US dropped an atomic bomb and it exploded 600m above Horoshima. The target was Aioi Bridge, however, it exploded a few hundred metres south east. It was called “little boy” and contained uranium.
600m is four times the height of the brown building on the right.
The explosion created a fireball that went as high as the earth’s stratosphere, and the fires burned for a day.
145,000 people died from the explosion and after effects of the radiation and many are still suffering. 140,000 had died by the end of the year, about half of these on the day of the bomb. The people had no knowledge of the atomic nature and therefore many people came from out of the area to help the injured, thus increasing the fatality count.
The Industrial Promotion Hall now known as the Atomic Bomb Dome, very close to the hypocentre became a symbol of peace, together with the peace memorial park built on an area where 98 percent of people died.
Before and now
Many young people were working on demolishing buildings to create fire blocks to reduce fire spreading in the event of an air raid, and therefore they were outside and more effected by the a bomb.
The victims were so thirsty that when black rain fell they all wanted to drink it, again not realising the radiation.
Sadako Sasaki was 2 years old and was a mile from where the bomb hit, was blown out of a window, however not injured. She was caught in the black rain. At about age 10 she was diagnosed with leukemia, which was later discovered to be one of many after effects of the radiation.
Her father told her the legend that if you fold 1,000 origami cranes your wish will come true. It is said she died before she managed 1,000.
The Children’s Peace Monument features a statue of Sadako holding a paper crane and inscribed “This is our cry. This is our prayer. To build peace in the world”
The museum has a number of her cranes.
The flame of peace in the peace park is a dedicated to abolition of nuclear weapons and will burn until there are none in existence.
The Victims Memorial Cenotaph
The dome, the flame of peace, the cenotaph, the peace park and the museum are all in alignment.
The museum display, very interesting and hard to take in.
Two days after
Both the park and the museum were extremely busy, of course coach loads from our ship and another, but also many school groups. Apparently May is the month most schools visit.
Another beautiful sailaway.
This evening’s entertainment from Phil Cass, an Australian magician and comedy act. Very funny! We absolutely loved his style of understated magic and comedy.
It is very easy to get around by cab and there is a shuttle bus in to town. At the port they give you a leaflet to tell a taxi driver where to go, so we jump in a cab. The etiquette with taxis is that you don’t touch the door. They have a button to open and close for either sliding or even normal opening!
I’m not sure of when we last caught an old school taxi. We had to consciously think to pay.
The Chikurin Temple, a Buddhist temple on the shikuko pilgrimage route. A very calm place, unlike all the others we have visited. Only a few people around.
At the bottom of the many stairs there were bamboo canes available for use to assist. I found the route much easier with it! Other locals already had their own.
Our taxi driver was excited to tell us through Google translate that you are allowed to dong the gong at the main temple.
Is that the famous swearing budda?
Just over the road is the Makino Botanical Gardens, established in 1958 and named after Dr. Makino Tomitaro, widely regarded as the “Father of Japanese Plant Taxonomy”.
Surprisingly advanced, it gives a QR for an interactive map with both your current location and species information.
An amazing glasshouse, interestingly cooler than outside! A pond with huge lily pads “victoria amazonica”, and the ability to walk in under a shallow part of the pond to see the leaf from underneath.
Nice to hear the occasional dong from the temple too.
We didn’t linger long here!
An uber to Kochi castle. Jumped in and told him where to go, then realised he already knew!
Firstly the museum. Very informative and a little outfit check.
A cute stamper too, several stamps to make one picture.
The castle was originally built in 1601. It was a shoe free zone as the downstairs is set out with traditional Japanese-style rooms.
Very steep stairs and great views from the top.
A not so light bite in a cute place in town.
It’s been a hot one, reaching 35°. A very traditional sail away send off.
A beautiful sunset for sail away in the sunset bar at the back of the ship, our favourite outdoors bar, and Kristine happens to be playing too.
Chef’s special of surf and turf this evening, lobster of course, and the theatre show the two acrobats. Absolutely jaw dropping.
Kristine is now in our favourite indoors bar. Taking requests, she did a brilliant version of creep, and chatting afterwards, apparently that was the toned down version.
A beautiful sunrise, followed by breakfast in bed for an early start.
Osaka castle. Whilst originally built in 1583, it is in it’s 3rd rebuild, however the first two only lasted 31 and 40 years. They then waited a couple of hundred years to the third build.
Outside of the main moat is a large public park through which we took a lovely walk. Many runners and a baseball players.
Situated on the top of the hill is the castle, therfore giving great views from the top.
Over to Dotonbori, a busy street with shops either side of a river.
I think Mark is liking these little machines too much. Anyone for a game of Uno?
The Glico sign, apparently you have to see it and style your own.
The local Donki shop in Dotonbori has a ferris wheel, though not your average shape. The Ebisu Tower ferris wheel is the first and only oval ferris wheel, standing at 77.4m tall. Also, you are seated in a line facing the entrance and a bar is pulled down. As you move to the side you the spin 180° to face the opposite direction where there is a glass front. You the continue sideways and then upwards.
Kobe beef is a type of wagyu, however from only the prefecture that Kobe is in. We aren’t quite in the prefecture, but as close as we are going to get, so it has to be today’s lunch. Even better, we tick off ramen and found a “no pork” restaurant!
The Umeda Sky Building with the highest escalators in the world.
A couple of tubes back and probably the tightest to all aboard time we have done, eek.
We Are Arashi are performing in town for a few days, and they are clearly very popular based on the various tshirts, bags, handbag straps and even a very stylish jacket people have. Quite a range in demographic of the fans too.
Sail off with a play away from the Osaka junior band.
Our resident astronomer, Kelly Beatty, did a couple of stargazing talks. We learnt so much!
He had his telescope out and we were able to see Jupiter and it’s 4 moons.
A few facts learnt:
Locate the big dipper. Use the “pointer stars” at the edge of it and continue the line to the north star (polaris), which turns out not to be the brightest. From polaris, hold your fists up and count the number of fists to the horizon x 10 and you have the latitude.
Draw a line down from the north star, and that is north.
Stars rise in the east and set in the west due to the earth’s rotation. They will be the same shape, therefore if you came back today next year. Planets however are different. The word planet means wandering star.
Back to the big dipper, following the same two stars in the other direction takes you to the Leo constellation.
Stars burn hydrogen to helium. Then they eventually run out. A blue star means a faster burner, red is cooler.
The old capital city of Japan before Tokyo. We are moored in nearby Osaka for two days.
Time to check out the shinkansen. First a tube to the right station. Choo-oo!
It seems in Osaka you stand on the right on the escalator whereas you stand on the left in Tokyo!
No problem trying to find where you buy tickets! Not so easy to buy the right ticket though.
A wizz of a journey making it up to 177mph.
Kinkaku-ji, the golden temple. Stunning!
Oh dear, not sure this is my one?!
Ginkaku-ji, a Buddhist temple with an amazing zen garden.
A yuzu ice cream with real gold flakes!
A stroll down the beautiful Philopher’s Path and a number of other quaint streets.
A geisha museum and traditional dance. Very interesting. A shoeless zone, so, to stroll round the zen garden you need their slip on clogs.
Yasaka Shrine, another impressive shrine, with a little street food – grilled crab.
A stumble on a tiny bar called Ayuya. They were so friendly and chatty considering their English was not great. I don’t think they ever see tourists. They were wowed by us being from England and bowled over when we told them of the cruise! They absolutely loved my Little Kitty bag hang!
When the owner grabbed a beer and a customer poured it, then the owner reciprocated, we remembered you dont pour your own drink in Japan!
More quaint streets.
Fushimi Inari Taisha to finish the day of shrines. An absolutely amazing route of hundred of tori gates.
Mooring in Shimizu, some distance from Fuji and Hakone.
Setting the alarm for 5.15 as the captain has said that if visible Fuji will be on the starboard side at 5.30. With our window facing forward we could just see it faintly from our bed!
We opted for the easy arranged tour as it is quite a distance and a time restriction. Fuji did decide to show, and we were lucky to be able to snap from the bus as we had seats on the that side.
Mount Fuji is the highest mountain in Japan at 3,776m. It last erupted in 1707/8. The snow is likely to remain for about a month. They call the summer “black fuji”.
The climbing season is July and August, with 100,000 people having climbed in 2025.
Traveling from Togendai to Owakudani on the Hakone Ropeway aka cable car.
We needed to split in to smaller groups for the ropewalk, and for some reason she picked Mark to take care of the last group. It’s a good job we were listening when she said not to get off at the first stop. Others didn’t seem to know!
At Owakudani is a volcanic valley and known for their black eggs. Normal eggs boiled in sulphur rich hot springs. The hydrogen sulfide and iron in the water react with the calcium in the eggshell to turn it black.
A natural spring.
We should have had a view of Fuji from Owakudani however the clouds had moved in, with no mountain visibility.
At the Hakone the Kuzuryu Shrine nine headed dragon god. The first Tori gate leading you to the shrine is down in the lake.
Tori gates are generally red, the colour to ward off evil.
The word saiko means excellent, however pronounced psycho, so our tour guide declared we had a psycho driver!
Back to the ship and a little chill time before sail away. Still no reappearance from Fuji.
Sail away and much waving from the land. We even had fireworks, yes in daylight!
This evening’s entertainment was a great show from the in house team. Beforehand, Giuseppe the captian came out for an entertaining chat with the top staff members. Angela, the entertainment manager is English, very funny and a little Dawn French.
A cut through the shopping centre a couple of blocks up.
A tea ceremony. Very interesting to hear that it started out as a samurai men only ritual. It would normally involve needing to crawl through a small door and leaving your shoes and sword outside, ie meaning all visitors had to bow and all were equal.
The tea bowls chosen and even the sweets offered are always reflective of the season with peony, rose and iris being popular now. The writing on the silk is important too.
There is a very strict order and way that the tea is made and drunk, each step with an underlying meaning, from being able to hear water being poured to slurping the end of your tea.
We also made our own matcha.
Another Shinto shrine, Hie Shrine.
Over to Ginza, the home of the high end shops, including Desigual!
Lunch on the top floor of the posh shopping mall Ginza Six, at Kumamoto Akaushi, a shabu shabu restaurant.
We each had a wagyu beef dish that came with instruction. Mark’s involved him cooking the beef and vegetables in a broth and then he could dip in the raw egg.
Ginza is also the home to the flagship store of Uniqlo.
Yes, that is a lift with watches in!
OMG, what’s the chances of Richard and Jo being in town!? Had to show them our new fave bar!
50 minutes doing the full length of the Ginza line to the other side of town at rush hour is very interesting and crowded! A very organised double queue of people getting on in some places, they pack them in, though no agrivation from those that can’t squeeze in, they know the next is only a minute away.
I had thought that the vertical writing that reads from right to left was only for older more traditional styles, however books and e-readers still use it. Yes the page numbering does go from what we would call the back to the front.
Senso-ji is the oldest temple in Tokyo. It is the temple of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva (Sho Kanzeon Bosatsu), who embodies the mercy of all Buddhas.
Good news!
If you draw a bad news one you tie it to a rod there and they burn them.
This temple had the biggest incense burner that you could smell from a long way!
Always make sure you purify yourself before you pay your respect.
You can get matcha anything here. We didn’t fancy the beer though!
Perhaps a coffee instead, yes that is coffee foam!
Hoppy street where all the locals eat, not far from the temple.
For lunch a fried sandwich at Age 3. Mine is creme brule, and Mark’s is beef. Interesting to see they were alcohol and pork free!
The Sky Tower and the Asahi headquarters with the golden turd. Yes of course we sampled the goods at the top of the building. Another great view over the city.
Time for a little swanning around in Ueno Park.
The SkyTree is the world’s tallest tower at 634 metres and the third tallest structure behind Merdeka 118 679m and Burj Khalifa 830m. The two floors are at 350m and 450m, and of course, a glass floor.
An evening in Akihabara. Dinner was at Tsukada Nojo chosen by a good Google rating and reviews. An izakaya restaurant based on chicken farming. Very busy with local “Tokyo salarymen”. Absolutely great food, possibly the best so far, and so reasonably priced. £38 for probably too many shared dishes, puddings, a shochu (a sweet potato distilled spirit) highball and a whisky soda highball. The bamboo shoots were absolutely lovely!
They showed us their speciality dishes in the menu, and I thought it odd that they had dessert listed before the mains. A little while later I realised…… not when a book reads the other direction!
In order to find this restaurant we used the Google location, the floor number Google had said and the phone number to confirm against a poster that we were getting in the right lift!
Akihabara is home to electric city, lots of gaming stores.
Pachinko is a pinball game that is very popular here. We went in a gaming room and had a go. From what we could tell you turn a dial for the strength of the ball release and once you hit the sweet spot you keep it there, so basically it is one hand holding a dial at the same place. Not sure I get the attraction.
Gambling is actually illegal in Japan, therefore you can’t win cash. You get a receipt for the balls you have. This can then be exchanged for “special prizes” (gold/silver tokens), which can be sold for cash at a separate, nearby vendor. The lottery is fine and betting on certain sports.
A light libation at Bar Legacy back in our own neighbourhood. The best cocktails, one a cheesecake and the other rum and raisin. Such a lovely place, tiny, and not much English speaking!
Today we are catching the Shonan-Shinjuku Line to Fujisawa, then the Enoshima Line and crossing on to the island.
A steep hot climb through the tori gate to the first shrine.
Once at the shrine we realise this is the one that you can pay for an escalator! A bit late you may say, but no, there were two more escalators!
Another simple but clever idea, a phone stand to take a selfie.
A great view of mount Fuji from the sea candle.
Down to the sea caves. There was a pile of photographers part way down, we think for the huge kites we had seen swooping nearby.
A little street food on the way back, a Japanese shrimp cracker and the other is octopus.
The next trip is on the Enoden Line, a scenic electric single line route often featured in Anime films. We had a crowd of photographers as we passed a certain spot made famous in the film Slam Dunk.
At Hase is Kotoku-in, the big budda. Surprisingly you can go inside!
A short bus ride to a local bamboo forest. They call it a forest though it wasn’t enough to keep a panda.
Another shrine, this time with a tea room and zen garden. The far end of this bamboo was by drippng water which then echoed through the pole and there was also a very low didgeridoo tone.
Back to Kamakura for another shrine, this time with a pond full of lillies, turtles and rather jumpy koi.
A Girrafa stop for the most delicious curry pan. I was only just in time as they close when they run out, so I must have had one of the last.
Time to see if we like sake. Not quite sure why they pour it in the box too?
For the journey to Yokohama we upgraded to the green car. Normal train carriages are like an underground train with seats at the side. The green car, has comfort and reclining!
In Yokohama a trip over the water in the gondola gave for great views of the bay. Likewise the Cosmo Clock, a ferris wheel. We chose a fully see through pod.
Tonight’s restaurant is on floor 46 in a hotel with great views over the bay, however extremely hard to find. We nearly gave up! Not just us it seems as Google’s request for assistance was to help people find it!
The final train of the day was direct straight to the stop by our hotel for a pricely sum of £2.35 each. Not bad for a 50 minute trip!
Time to test the underground. Having bought an oyster equivalent with preloaded spend, we are good. Surprisingly they seem to be a little behind on being able to use your own card.
Etiquette on public transport is no talking. It took us a few minutes to remember that one….. eek
Google came in very useful telling us which carriage number gives the fastest change for the next line, especially as we have a deadline to where we are headed and a few changes. That said, the screens on the tube are very informative on where the alignment of the carriages to the exits etc together with journey timings and other info.
They also have the clever though simple concept of giving each station on a line a number. So on the Y line we got in at Y17 and got off at Y22. The exits are numbered too. Very foreigner friendly!
Google also tells you the price for the route. Some can cost a lot more!
TeamLab Planets, an amazing modern interactive art exhibition. Barefoot required for most and a fair amount involving either walking through water or on mirrored floors.
On to the port area, very modern with a number of buildings and arenas we assume built for the Olympics. A number of large flower displays were in progress, and this display made of just petals and sand.
We stumbled on a 42km marathon relay, very interesting to watch.
The Statue of Liberty. One of many replicas around the world. It is much smaller than the original. Behind this you can see the rainbow bridge, which is lit up as named of an evening.
Our next tube took us over the rainbow bridge to the Tsukiji fish market. Known as the more touristy one, the other known for not letting many tourists visit, we thought we may not stay long, however stumbled on this lovely little non touristy fish restaurant, absolutely lovely!
Next, to the gardens of the Imperial Palace, and the Edo Castle ruins.
When number 45 of the “50 Best” bars of the world list is nearby, then it needs to be done. A geisha and a smoked old fashioned, very well done!
One of the best views for sundown too, with a sight of Fuji.
What is the theory here in the order of the numbers on the card machine?
It turns out they have a number scramble to reduce fraud risk.
This evening we are in Shinjuku. First a light show on the front of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. This runs all year round with half hourly shows.
The building also had a free observation deck.
The words biggest pendulum!
Another thing they seem to go crazy over is grab machines, so much so there are two levels to some if them!
Omoide Yokocho Memory Lane, a cute little street known for it’s small eateries. My kind of fast food!
Then on to Golden-Gai, the main trendy area full of tiny little bars, some you are welcome and some you are not. We had thought we would need a tour to be safe, though the whole area was very friendly. We stumbled on one where the bar owner played a slide guitar.
Good morning, what a very different but fab breakfast!
An early start with our first shrine of the trip. Meiji Jingu dedicated to Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken. A much more recent Emperor that I would have expected. They ruled to the early 1900s, and made many positive changes in “unprecedented” times!
Our first Tori gate, no doubt one of many to come. Don’t forget to bow before you go through to show your respect, and always walk to the side not the centre as this is reserved for the deities.
And on to the shrine. To show your respect you put some coins in the slots, bow twice, clap twice and then bow again.
A popular place for wedding ceremonies having seen four wedding parties in half an hour.
Omikuji – a sort of fortune telling poem, no, they didnt make sense!
A stroll though Yoyogi park. A Saturday morning with so many joggers and families picnicing.
On the far side of the park and a quick toilet stop.
Returning back through the park and a small rose garden with the biggest roses. Absolutely beautiful.
On to the shops. A famous street for odd shops, including many capsule labs. A shop full of machines where you put money in to get a ball with, well random tatt. You’d be surprised how popular they are!
Just round the corner, a coffee stop where you are served by a bear through a hole in the wall. That word weird is back!
Don’t ask what the picture on the right is!
And time for a little street food, with rainbow bread.
I declare this now a holiday, yes, that is of course matcha.
Ok, so now the crossing is busy!
Shibuya Scramble, a very tall building overlooking the crossing, for sunset.
And our first glimpse of Fuji.
Interestingly it also overlooks the building our hotel is in.
Another local, well, Paix Dieu is only brewed at full moon you know, it would be rude not to!
After a little flight swap a month or so ago from originally having flights via the Middle East, we are now flying with Korean Air to Tokyo via Seoul. This also means we are direct on the way home, even better!
The first culture shock on the plane is that English is certainly not the first language, and we already feel abroad in Heathrow!
The icing on the cake was when the steward asked if I wanted the chicken meal, which I assumed the main option, of course, yes. Chicken mash and veg. Everyone else had something Korean in a bowl!
A couple of hours to transition in Seoul, though it feels more like a classy shopping centre, lots of greenery. It even had a taekwondo show!
A short bumpy flight to Tokyo. They said it was turbulence, though I think it was just Mark laughing to Naked Gun.
A classy transfer in to town with very comfy seats, however somewhat surprised they allow full on TV screens in the front!
A quick freshen and we are out to find “the” crossing……
Shibuya crossing is the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, with as many as 3,000 people crossing during a single green light cycle. Every top ten of what to see in Tokyo lists it top! It is just round the corner from our hotel.
Ah dear, didn’t quite make it. It looks like our local might be our favourite……. oops!
Finally made it to the crossing, and well, on the underwhelming scale, its possibly up there with Copenhagen’s little mermaid! I thought it was busy?
A little stroll round the area to include a visit to the discount chain store Don Quijote, a mix of TKMaxx and Primark with a little added Japanese strangeness. I mean where else would you sell knives and sex toys, but right next to some kids toys?? Or of course, you may want many choices of mini cameras, or perhaps some Miffy or Hello Kitty merch?
I think that “how strange” comment may be a little theme of the trip?
11905 photos (just ours!), 2291 miles, 55.5 hours of driving, route 66 the Mother Road, 28 the magic number, 22 magnetic bottle openers, 9 hotels/motels, 3 US states, and 1 helicopter trip.
You’re gonna need a bigger radiator!
We had a Ford Expedition. It was huge and perfect for us with so much space and visibility in the back. Though we did notice that, strangely, the volume on the music would automatically get louder each time Mark started singing in the back!
The country is more behind in terms of technology and other things against the UK than I would expect. When paying by card, firstly they take the card, they are surprised when it asks for a pin number, and then they print a ticket that asks for you to manually write a figure for a tip and revised total, which then later amends the amount coming off your card.
I only saw the usual message about reusing towels in one hotel.
Roundabouts – in SF, Chad pulled up to one and mentioned drivers just don’t know what to do with them, only to be proven by the vehicle on the roundabout wanting to give way to us!
Everyone was so friendly, with loads of chats with strangers. The driving style was much more chilled than home too.
Half a peace sign – A Chad term, meaning the opposite of peace!
Bingo ticks
The Grand Canyon (and even more amazing in a helicopter)
SF bridge
Vegas baby
Route 66
Being called ma’am
Walking through saloon doors
A Texan saying “y’all”
Someone saying “how you doiin”, “have a nice day” and “across the pond”
Howdy beer
Trump’s plane
The Hollywood sign
An in line skater on Venice Beach
A coke lorry
Key lime pie!
Bingo fails
A show in the Vegas Sphere
A bear in the wild
Tumbleweed
Time travelling an hour on the Hoover Dam (a couple of weeks too early for this)
A make America great again hat
Tortoise not in captivity – a number of places told you to check under the car before you left.
A whistle-stop tour of LA, starting at Muscle Beach Venice. Not many on the gym yet. So many surfers on the water at this end of the beach. No one was using the teqball tables.
A stroll along the boulevard to Santa Monica, past the numerous and popular volleyball nets. We saw just two skaters, plenty of bikes, and so many joggers you had to look round before you attempted moving to the other side. What an amazing beach!
A couple of bikes had large hooks to the side carrying their surf board. What a great idea!
The end of Route 66 is on the pier.
Next stop, Hollywood.
The Dolby Theatre, where they host the Academy Awards. The boards on the side showing best film for each year since the start. Interestingly, they have the empty boards set up for quite some years to come.
Original Grauman’s Chinese Theater and the Hollywood footprints. Never realised that Eddie Murphy had such small feet!
The walk of fame covers 1.3 miles.
Beverly Hills had an art fair on. Very high end, though I don’t think the people browsing were local.
A little stroll down Rodeo Drive and the neighbourhood. Very impressive. A great place for people watching.
Beverly Hills City Hall, an iconic building featured in many films.
Heading back to the hotel to get the car, past the airport. Donald Trump’s plane is parked up. He is local for the Camp Pendleton event.
It turns out we just missed one of the ‘No Kings’ protests in Venice Beach. Lucky not to have been caught up in that!
A great teriyaki beef at P.F. Chang’s in the airport and then up to the gate. Wow, biometric boarding gates. No need for a boarding pass!
Mark always has special dietary meals on the plane, which normally means he is finished eating when mine arrives. This time, so that we could eat together, I put in for one, but a different choice – kosher, meaning everything came well sealed and very hard to get into!
As discovered on the way out, Mark’s was similar to the normal meals, meaning all three of them, and I expect the whole plane, but not me had………. key lime pie! Thankfully, Richard loves me enough to trade!
It was really nice! The last place we would have expected to find it! Well done BA! That just leaves a Joshua Tree magnetic bottle opener to find for Richard and a real wild bear for Jo, hopefully not on the plane!
There are still no fees for entering the park, however the visitor centre here is open as it is run by a non profit partner of the NPS. In the end, we have not missed out at all by the “closure” of the parks, just gained by not having to have bought a pass.
Two deserts overlap in Joshua Tree National Park. The Mojave in the western part and the Colorado in the eastern part.
The western end is full of joshua trees, making more amazing scenery, very different to what we have already seen.
The joshua tree is not actually a tree, it is a succulent and belongs to the yucca genus.
This photo was taken by a lovely chap we got talking to who asked by any chance do we have a paper map he could look at. He had asked the right people! We did not expect someone to ask to borrow it, any more than the bottle opener the other day!
Well done, Richard, for supplying items to help others. What odd item will be asked for next?
A western short-horned walkingstick.
Breakfast with a view.
A dike – the line going through the rocks.
We are right by the San Andreas fault, and not far from Palm Springs, which you could see from this viewpoint.
Then on to some trails, one to an old gold mine. It is very warm when out of the wind. There are signs up saying don’t die today!
Lunch with a view as well!
Split rock.
A slightly longer route to arch rock!
We then headed down to the eastern part of the park, where the joshua trees are replaced by cacti. The cholla cactus garden. With the sun not far off setting, it glows through the cactus spikes.
After much gibing through the trip, Richard finally declared this morning that he had 16 magnet bottle openers. Sad to say, however, Joshua Tree did not oblige. Fingers crossed, we find one in the airport.
Driving west to LA, with the most beautiful orange skies after sundown, just as you would imagine to look in……. LA!
On the highway, Richard loved the carpool lane, especially the queue jumping on the flyover!
A lovely dinner in G’s Il Capo Dei Bar in a lovely region of LA called El Segundo.
The LA Dodgers won their game and so are through to the World Series. The town is full of celebrations and many Dodgers shirts.
Time to see it from above! I’ve been looking forward to this for a long time, and it exceeded my expectations!
The pilot was right when he said best to see the GC firstly from the rim and then by helicopter.
I had wondered why most of the peaks were flat topped. Now having seen from above, the flatness is the original flat land and then the Canyon has been shaped.
On the north rim we could see bison. Coming in to land we could see our hotel.
What an amazing experience! I would certainly repeat it.
Then a driving day of 360 miles. We are now retracing our steps to Kingman but taking the route 40 west rather than the slower route 66. There are plenty of signs warning of ice. Quite surprising considering how warm it is, though we are at 5000-6000 ft elevation.
Plenty of warnings too about deer and other wildlife. Apparently, the bar on the front of trunks is a deer guard to protect the vehicle. We finally spotted a burro. We have a rule that for something to have happened, it needs either three of us to see it or photo evidence.
We came off route 40 at Kingman back on to route 66 via Richard’s special surprise route.
Yet another toilet stop!
A little stop at Cool Springs, aka the real Radiator Springs.
Now for the sidewinder. Wish us luck!
Without much notice, another wild donkey! He wasn’t planning on moving quickly.
An Oldsmobile.
Oatman, a cute historic town with wild burros. They seemed quite tame actually, with one that regularly walks in to the shops!
We filled up the tank at 2.99 per gallon before leaving Arizona. Crossing in to California the petrol is 5.99 per gallon! Our tank takes 23 gallons.
Still on route 66, Amboy, now a ghost town as no one lives there.
Lovely dinner at Kitchen in the Desert in the town of 29 Palms where we are staying. The sprouts dish had been forgotten, but was certainly worth the wait.
Most restaurants don’t ask if you want a pudding, and just give you the bill saying “no rush” however he appeared and offered……. key lime pie as a special!
After the fail in LV (day 2), there had been many references to where I would find a really nice homemade one. Dinner had been lovely here. Richard started bigging it up how lovely it would be……….. Lesson learnt, don’t listen to him! The waiter then declared they had none left!
We are staying near the South Rim, in Tusayan, just outside of the park. An early start for sunrise at Mather Point. Absolutely stunning!
Interestingly, we overheard someone saying they missed the Tioga pass and that they also could not get into Mammoth Lakes without having snow chains. They could only have been a few days behind us!
We then followed Desert View drive with various view points.
Najavo Point was at the deepest part of the canyon. At the end of the route is Desert View Watchtower.
I was very surprised to be able to see the Colorado River from so many viewpoints.
Lipan Point was my favourite view on Desert View drive.
Yes, there was more than one jumper in the shop, but this is the one we both liked!
The car next to us had some guys that had just finished a 3 day hike. They had beers awaiting in their cool box, but they couldn’t find their bottle opener and asked if we, by any chance, had one. They had asked the right people! Suddenly, this morning’s newly purchased GC magnet bottle opener had a use rather than just heading for the radiator display. This did break protocol, though, as they are “not to be used” and not even by one of us but a total stranger!
Back to Mather point and a hike from here along the South Rim Trail to Hopi Point. All is well paved and easy underfoot. There are various trials that go down into the canyon, though you are talking of a few days to go down to the river and back up, and there is only one “hotel” which you book 18 months in advance. We had considered going down part of a trial, however the South Rim Trail took quite some time, especially with all the photo stops.
A bison burger for lunch, very nice!
Every view is different from the last. Words can not describe how amazing the scenery is, nor do the photos do it justice. You can see through the day as the shadows get longer and the colouring changes.
We’ve escaped Vegas! First stop, the Hoover Dam on the Colorado River.
The border of Nevada and Arizona is halfway across the dam.
The two states are currently on the same time zone, however they will be an hour apart in a few weeks.
In to Arizona and the roads are much less well kept. In the other states, the highways had sponsorship. They need to tell Arizona!
We hit route 66 at Kingman. For those not up to speed, route 66, known as the mother road, crosses USA from Chicago to Los Angeles, and is scenic, historic and iconic.
It’s amazing what you can buy for route 66! We chose not to go for the earrings, still holding out for the gun earring!
Rickety Cricket Brewing for lunch that turned out to be dinner. Not only was it happy hour, but the pizzas were the best with so much topping on them!
We also stopped in Hackberry and Seligman. Much of the journey followed the train route, carrying many extremely long cargo trains.
They checked out a AK47, pistol, M4, MP5. Awesome they said!
A little more strip time today. Drinks in the Cosmopolitan chandelier, though I think it looked more impressive from outside.
Dinner at Virgils. A sweet potato and bean bowl with steak for me, up there with my favourite meals.
They even had key lime pie on the menu. This was one thing I wanted to try over here. After chasing it numerous times, it appeared as we were leaving. They refunded, but it really didn’t look a great one after all the pies we’ve seen. Discussion ensued as to where I would find a lovely homemade one…….
Hope Road, an interactive show based on the music of Bob Marley. Absolutely amazing!
You can’t do Vegas without a little flutter, and roulette was the one that appealed to us all, however not with equal quantities of luck! Mark and I started with $90 each. I ended up $68, and Mark’s 28 he’d been saying all week paid out, giving him a gain of $97! Not so much joy for Richard and Jo though.
From the Manadalay, where better to go for a nightcap than our favourite little sky bar? Not forgetting the view from the toilet of the planes taking off!
What do we think of Vegas? Some of the hotels are impressive. Such a sensory overload of flashing lights in the casinos, tv screens everywhere and too much weed. We enjoyed the little gambling we did. The show we saw was amazing. If they weren’t so expensive we would have seen more, especially in the Sphere.
Aka “lost wages”. The first time we heard it called that we found it really funny. The next ten times not so much! It probably works better with the american pronunciation as they pronounce las as los.
Time to start the tour of the hotels on the strip, heading north.
Next door is Excalibur, and a stop at Dicks for breakfast. Sitting down at the table we compared notes, yes she did say good luck, and the server said he’d be back, we are his lowest priority. Unbeknownst to us, it is a themed restaurant working on insults! Actually quite funny!
Next stop New York. Yes, that is a statue of chocolate.
The Cosmopolitan. A great chandelier!
The Belaggio chocolate fountain.
Whilst the gardens were very impressive they were heaving with tourists which made them not relaxing at all. The ceiling in the reception that cost $40m was impressive, but maybe not $40m impressive.
The fountain show lived up to my high expectations with the music to accompany subtly coming from speakers hidden in the walls. The Grand Prix is here in a month or so, therefore there is a great big temporary building along most of the length of the fountains, so you can’t see them properly from the road. You can still see them fine from the hotel.
We loved Ceasers Palace and their shopping area. Yes, that is a spiral escalator!
Likewise The Venetian, my favourite.
The Sphere. We would have loved to see a show here however the Eagles were on for about $1,000 for a decent ticket or The Wizard of Oz, aimed more for kids.
There is a LV Raiders game on today in town so we are gradually learning the team names from all the tshirts. 98 Crosby is very popular!
A few more hotels. Very interesting how much they vary from how well themed they are and how posh or the opposite!
A cab ride to Freemont Street through the dodgey area, which turned out to have so many chapels. I’d wrongly assumed there were only a few cute ones and near to the strip.
Freemont Street, a very impressive screen on the roof, lots of loud music, and a great vibe. We saw a few doing the zip line.
Weed is legal here, and whilst Nevada’s law says it is not for use in public spaces, the smell was too much here, so we headed back into town for dinner. Well, Venice actually.
Heading south through a hot flat vast barron expanse. Very surprised to drive past two ladies running!
Unfortunately, last month, they had flash floods, so the road we would have followed through the valley is closed, and therefore no access to badwater basin, artistes palette and devil’s golf course. The road won’t be fixed at least until the parks reopen.
First stop Zabriskie Point. Wow! Such dramatic and very different scenery.
Dante’s View, which overlooks Badwater Basin and the whole valley. The basin is the lowest point in North America at 282ft/86m below sea level
Absolutely amazing! Gutted to not be able to be down there, but on the upside, there are no cars spoiling the view! You can see where the road goes, and it is very close to the salt flats.
A museum and lunch stop in Shoshone. Having seen a number of bikers on the road we were suddenly overrun with them in this small restaurant who similarly seemed surprised to be so busy. We rather liked one chap’s gun earing! Will see if we can find one in the shops!
And yet more absolutely amazing scenery.
First view of LV.
Having spent less time in Death Valley than expected, we had time for Red Rock Canyon, just west of LV. Impressive, but not against the days of amazing scenery we’ve just had. Oh well, make the most of this natural view.
With none of us being gamblers or fans of flashy lights, we are not sure how much we’ll enjoy LV, but all want to see it. The town is much bigger than we had thought with many suburbs. Finally, we reach the strip, driving south from the Strat down to the sign. It’s a great way to see the strip.
And we have arrived at our home for three nights, the Luxor.
Checking out the hotels south of us for the evening, so dinner in a cute place in the Mandalay Bay with live music. Prawns and cheesy grits for me, very nice!
The W Las Vegas is behind it, with a sky bar. A great view of the strip lit up and nice to see the helicopter tours all flying past lower than us. No gambling, flashy lights or screens, just our kind of place, surprisingly not very busy. Oh, and maybe they do good cocktails, too!
I can’t tell you what happened next, of course, what happens in Vegas…….
The first day ever where I have needed both a great big coat and shorts!
The Mammoth Lakes area, a ski resort in winter and a water sports area in the summer, have about 30 bears, however at the base of the ski lifts they did feel the need to have signage mentioning an active bear in the area.
Even still, we didn’t see one.
The day started with a tour of the lakes, a low temperature and an even colder wind, but so pretty. Again, the photos don’t do it justice.
There was indeed snow on the top of the mountains at 11,000 ft, however the gondola was closed for maintenance, so unable to get a close look.
An earthquake fault in the middle of the forest. That gap went a very long way down!
A winding road back down.
A little down the road to Hot Creek Geologic Site, with bubling springs. Apparently, they spurt geysers occasionally.
Had a little feel of the water in the river, which was very hot. The baby trout didn’t seem to mind.
A quick stop at Covict Lake. Into the shorts already.
Back down to sea level and a lunch stop in Bishop then continuing south, through an amazing flat valley with mountain ranges either side. Just as we are thinking that it looks like a film set……
The Mobius Arch Loop Trail in the Alabama Hills. Feels more like we have landed on another planet!
A few more miles south and another notable stop, somewhat further from the road than we expected. In true Alice style, we followed the running hare across a field, and whatever Bono said, we did find it!
The actual Joshua tree.
A mirage we think. There was no lake on the map.
They don’t call it Death Valley for no reason, 101°f/38°c and it’s nearly sundown!
We are staying in Beatty, where wild burros roam free, a kind of donkey. We didn’t see any, just evidence they had been there. Apparently, they had been rounded up for a periodical number decrease.
Dinner in Happy Burro Chili & Beer. Great chili and the cheapest meal ever at $65 plus tip. Nevada doesn’t have laws restricting smoking indoors, which will feel like we’ve stepped back 20 years. Also, many places seem to encourage cash rather than card by offering a discount.
An early morning start as we have various stops and want to make it to Bodie State park, a ghost town from the gold rush for 2.30pm.
Firstly, the road back in to Yosemite.
Pull out with another angle of Half Dome.
Our first stop. A trail down to dead giant tunnel tree.
Olstead Point, our final view of Half Dome. If you look hard enough, you can see people climbing the ladder that goes up the side.
Tuolome Meadows and Soda Springs. These are the boxes you leave any food or drinks in rather than leaving them in the car. A bear will pull the car window out to get the food.
Finally, the highest point of the pass. It will close for the winter, some times as early as mid October. They give a few days warning. *edit* – we did this pass on 9th, it closed 13th 2pm, and the Glacier Point Road!
Our first snow, and suddenly very windy having changed sides of the valley.
Bodie, so much of it left considering it has been abandoned for so long. Jim said they use to be allowed in the houses when he was a kid. So glad we visited this one rather than of of the several hundred others. So windy and dusty, more a wonder that the structures are still standing and that people even lived there! Now I understand why they call it wild west!
The school house.
Mono Lake, with its strange tufa towers, a lake that rivers flow into however water does not then flow out of it so the calcium builds up and forms tufa.
Home for tonight, Edelweiss. No, please stop singing it!
Another quick view of El Capitan before a long winding road heading up out of the valley, through the pine forests. Sad to see there have been a number of fires through here perhaps a few years ago leaving dead trunks.
We are on the south side of the valley, with a walk out to Taft Point, a viewpoint of the whole valley, a little east of El Capitain.
Absolutely breathtaking!
Then on to the top of Sentinel Dome. Yes, we are heading up there!
At 2475m/8120ft another absolutely amazing view.
Half Dome from Sentinel Dome. Such an iconic peak.
Then a path down to Glacier Point, giving more amazing views of El Capitan and Half Dome
One more of El Capitan.
Finally seen a bear!
Mariposa, a cute town near our lodgings, for a little browse and dinner.
Jim, the chatty guy at the bar, who only popped out to get dinner but entertained Mark and Richard until dinner was ready. Great life story. We expect his wife Mary is used to him arriving with her dinner cold!
An early morning stroll along Monterey seafront, a beautiful mix of yatchs and nature with seals, cormorants, and pelicans a plenty. We even spotted stingrays in the water, and a great blue heron.
A little further, and we hit cannery row, with a history of canning sardines in its heyday.
At the far end, the renowned aquarium. It seems everyone, even Brian the SF taxi driver, thinking we had not heard if it, has told us to visit, and having discovered Kerry’s close family connection, somewhat tempted, however, there are so many calls on our time.
Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, a lovely, well kept and well signed nature reserve. Plenty of pelicans, herons, guillemots, egrets, and of course seals and sea lions. They even have a free loan of binoculars, you just leave your car keys as an exchange. Great idea!
A drive through Carmel, a cute town with pretty houses, each one different to the next.
Then on to 17 mile drive, a scenic driving tour of Pebble Beach. $12.50 per car for the privilege, with various pull outs. Popular with coach tours. Pretty, but didn’t live up to the expectations. A little hazy from sea fog, made it a little chilly, for which Mark cracking out the shorts got the blame. It did look more impressive when the sun broke through. The great big houses and various golf courses with the sea as a backdrop was more impressive than the view points.
Time to head east, tonight we are staying at Midpines, our base for Yosemite.
The view of the rolling Californian hills heading out is amazing, just as you would expect them to look, like the wine bottles say they should look like. Possibly looking a little fake?
A little stop at the San Luis reservoir, an amazing blue, and with the hills now a lovely shade of yellow, we have hit it with a little added magic from sundown’s special lighting. It’s absolutely beautiful, though again so perfect it suggests fake.
Having passed the reservoir, we suddenly fall off the hills to totally flat land.
Another hour or so, and we are here, green cabin, mid pines. A huge cabin with two doubles, a twin and sofa beds. The sign, however, showed a maximum of 4. It’s very quiet though, no light, no people, just odd animal sounds…….. we are working out our characters in a scream movie!
Good morning! Quite some greeting on leaving the lift at reception!
After picking up the car we headed south past Santa Cruz and Monterey and headed for the Big Sur. Wow! Such a scenic drive, let the photos do the talking……
The furthest South being McWay Falls, a spectacular view that lived up to the high expectations.
A little park with some impressive redwoods.
On the way back up, we hit the magic hour. Amazing colours and it made another golden bridge!
Time to check out the trams. The Powell Street turnaround is not far from the hotel. They still use man power to push the tram round.
We caught the Hyde Street line taking us over Nob Hill and Russian Hill past the top of the hairpin section of Lombard Street. The hills are exactly as we expected of SF. The photos really don’t do them justice.
A little stop at the renowned chocolate village of Ghirardelli, definitely ready for Halloween.
Followed by the also renowned Buena Vista, the home of Irish coffee.
Oh go on then!
Possibly the best I’ve had, and yes, the sun was past the yard arm….. in the UK! The chap making them was fast, messy, and over dramatic. We didn’t work out why he would throw out a spoonful of coffee before mixing.
A little stroll down the sea front, through pier 39 and a little tourist shopping. Richard is in his element, magnet shops galore!
These were more comfy than they look!
Back up Telegraph Hill via the Greenwich and Filbert steps, this time up to the top of Coit Tower. Excellent views all around.
Back down the other side on the Filbert steps and then down a very steep Kearney to North Beach aka Little Italy.
An early dinner in Cafe Zoetrope, located in the historic Sentinel Building. Built in 1906/7, it survived the 1906 earthquake and fires. Francis Ford Coppola bought the building in 1972 to be the headquarters for his production company, American Zoetrope, and the cafe opened in 1999. FFC’s own beef pork and veal meatballs with spaghetti were amazing!
Also known for its short story vending machine.
Thankfully, after a rocky day Thursday, we heard yesterday that our evening trip to Alcatraz was going ahead, one of the many things closed being part of the national parks.
One of the actual cells they dug out of and left fake heads in the beds.
Oh go on then, one last one!
The best and highest sky bar in town to finish the evening.
A quick pop to check out Union Square. Unfortunately, Tiffany’s was not open yet.
Most people leave their heart here, looks like they’ve kept some and painted them…….. an interesting heart display across the town.
This morning, we have a tour with Harvey, a 1971 VW campervan, and a knowledgeable and very upbeat tourguide Chad. He had a music track for every area we went through, which just made the tour even more enjoyable. Up through Chinatown and Little Italy, not forgetting Chitaly, the bit in between.
There are 44 hills of SF, one being Telegraph Hill, with great views from the hairpin section of Lombard Street in the west to Bay Bridge in the east. Harvey in blue, and we met up with Lily in red
An Ana hummingbird.
A little while in, and we were at the top of Russian Hill walking down the Lombard Street stairs, the only road our tourbus was not allowed down.
Finally! Did I mention I like bridges?
So thankful Karl the fog has stayed away. And from a little further west……
Unfortunately, due to the government not reaching an agreement on the federal appropriations earlier this week, a fair amount of the national parks are closed. For SF, this means a number of car parks will have closed barriers as staff are on furlough, and therfore not so many options on bridge views. Quite how this will affect the rest of our trip we will learn more in the coming days.
All the way out to Land’s End and the sutro baths.
The music events in Golden Gate Park meant a little swerve needed, though we were able to see much of the park. Through the trendy Height Ashbury area with much chat of Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and the Greatful Dead.
The view from Tank Hill.
Of course the painted ladies, with a Harvey parked in front.
A not very light refreshment in the form of the classic clam chowder down in Fisherman’s Wharf.
Time for a cab to go and get a closer look at that golden gate.
Hang on a tick, where is the driver?
Waymo, apparently now 800 of them in SF. They have been running for 3 years. It took less time than expected to get used to the concept, and after an interesting cab ride later in the day, we appreciated the driving style of our new Waymo friend.
Here we go, Marshall’s Beach, a great spot for a hot view………
At 1.7 miles, it had to be walked.
Yes, I have plenty of photos, and then some more as the sun went down!
A really lovely Nepalise meal at Yarsa, followed by drinks at the Top of the Mark then finished off the day.
Meet Richard and Jo. They have been friends for some years and hopefully still friends after this trip!
I think this is the first time we have done upstairs seats on a plane. No, it didn’t feel any different from a normal one level plane!
After half a day in the air, an evening in town to find our feet. First, a stroll in the Salesforce garden having taken a ride in the tiniest gondola ride ever.
The bus fountain, as a bus passes underneath the fountain water jets shoot water.
Onwards to the ferry building at the end of Market Street and wow! Hang on, I thought someone said it was golden?
The most graceful pelicans, flying and landing in formation, and of course, the very impressive ferry building.
If you would rather the short version, you are welcome to skip straight to the end. If you find yourself in South America, you’ve gone too far, though feel free to read on, as it is very interesting!
Booked some months ago as a taster, and to pop the cherry of our very good friends’ cruise virginity. A much larger ship than we have been on before.
I have to say before you get any further, all opinions are my own and a fair few from the group, and all with the background of having done a few cruises, all of which having been bowled over by the amazing level of service and attentiveness by the staff and absolutely amazing food, which you know for us includes the question of somewhat odd dietary requirements. They, therefore, may be biased for having been treated so well on previous cruises, and others may have a different opinion. It has been impossible not to draw comparison.
You are probably aware of the first flaw. Not long after booking they declared we were no longer doing Guernsey but Cherbourg. A big disappointment however should not need to distract from sharing the trip with our friends.
Let’s share some positives.
Check in. So smooth. Hardly any time taken. Could not fault it.
The ceilings in the main walkway had different art every time you saw it. Very impressive.
And we found the pub right there doing Belgian beer (well, luckily, there was one of them they had not run out of)
The water flumes and high wire were a big highlight. Absolutely brilliant! We may have got hailed on while on the high wire, and for some reason our private photographer didn’t catch that time frame (I think he may have run in and left us out there!) There was also much shaking in the ropes for some reason!?
Cherbourg was a pretty port, though the town very sleepy and closed on a Sunday.
The cruise was much less family and kids than expected and full of hen and stag parties, and quite a challenge at some bars. Apparently, this is not a normal and was due to it being a weekend.
The second flaw has to be the emergency musters. As with previous, you watch a video and then attend your muster station to scan in so they know you have been there. However, rather than give a several hour window to do this, there was a 20-minute madness for all to do it, and your charge card would not work until you had. Having just showered, we were late to our muster point and were told that’s fine, as long as we have been, it doesn’t need scanning. Hmm. Thankfully, we stumbled on another and scanned in there. We weren’t the only ones saying this. I believe a fail in their safety regulations.
And we’re off!…..
So lovely to sail off and see Southampton, Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight.
The MSC app. Great concept showing all the activities for the day and much more……. if you can stay on their WiFi long enough, however the constant logging you off makes it useless.
Interestingly, on day 2, you could see the full listings for day 3……. the sail away party we are not going to, etc!
The silent disco. Great concept, and enjoyed them before. Shame they didn’t plan for enough sets of headphones so had run out. We managed to catch someone going to give them back. We took back the spare to discover they all need checking back in otherwise there is a deposit charged to the people that checked them out. Not only will many people get a charge, but that will make for a big queue giving them back!
White night. The second evening had a great theme. Most people dressed to impress. Shame no-one thought to ensure we knew about the theme with enough notice.
Theatre shows. These needed booking and a smaller theatre just on one floor, though there were many stand by seats. A great show of music and dancing. There were a couple of the dancers doing amazing flips etc. Shame it was only 35 minutes. You could also pay to go to a different show. We did not try this.
Apparently there was a light show on the arcade ceiling after each theatre show……. if you got out fast enough to see it.
The rooms. Normally, the room service is impeccable, and the person doing it is so lovely and cannot do enough for you. We met him once. The room was generally clean apart from a lack of hoovering. No turndown or chocolates.
Our friends’ room had not been cleaned when we were allowed to go in to drop our bags. However, even after cleaning, there was no toilet roll, not enough cups, and not enough pool towels. We were already aware the pool towels can be swapped at the pool, however if missing on check out, we will be charged. They also had random things of previous occupiers under the bed. On asking for toilet roll, you would think an apology and for them to quickly appear with some. No, they were disbelieved and told it was there.
Dining. Wow, where do I start?
I think we had previously asked to group our set time dining to a table of 5. On board, we found it not the case so amended. This meant our dining room, time, and table number were handwritten on our cards, which, of course, soon smudged. We rocked up on time. One waiter disagreed with the number we thought it was. Either way, the five of us, with just as many waiters, ended up strolling around the whole restaurant looking for the table number. They were certainly not logical in location! Finally, the waiter put two tables together based on the number we had said it was.
Wow, have you ever wandered around a restaurant trying to find the table you should be on?!
We were allowed one menu to share as the intention was to use the QR to view the food and drinks menu. Apart from not liking the concept of using phones at the dinner table, which whilst may work for a pub it does not say luxury dining, may have worked if the app did! The children’s menu took several asks.
No sommelier, of course, and playing the guessing game of what wines they may have. Certainly no opportunity to have an opinion on the best wine for a dish. You were lucky to have more than one choice of white wine. The food did not wow us.
Breakfast. The menu looked very promising. After needing to ask a couple of times for water, and of course the one menu had been round enough times for us to choose, we finally gave up and asked to place the food order. It was not, however, our turn. There was another 15 minutes before we were in turn to place our food order. Asking someone else a little later seemed to have queue jumped a little.
The waiting staff did not seem busy or attentive. The dining service could not be more different to our last cruise. A huge disappointment, especially as we considered this a big part we wanted to show our virgin cruiser friends.
Back to the buffet. The food good but it doesn’t make it our kind of evening.
Allergies? Not one person asked.
The small things we now see as normal on a cruise that makes it amazing that just weren’t there……..
The staff being so polite and chatty to make your day fab.
Rocking up at a bar and they know your name and order. Certainly no queuing or having to fight to get noticed.
Rocking up in the jacuzzi and a bar person appearing from nowhere to take an order.
The restaurant staff all knowing you and having a laugh with them and impeccable service and food.
The attentiveness of the room chap that is always around doing things and cannot do enough for you.
The constantly clean toilets with towels and paper towels to hit the door buttons.
This cruise director, we noticed when saying about disembarkation, rather than wishing us well, mentions instead needing the boat clear for the next guests.
Makes you realise how brilliant they are…… a little itchy feet for another now, maybe?! Ut oh!
To summarise? Overall, we had a great time and, with the addition of Paultons and Salisbury, a brilliant weekend. One we will always look back on together. A disappointment, however, to not be able to introduce our friends to the amazing cruise experience of astounding service and food we have loved previously.
Wow! We now understand the terminology “rain” forest! The rain is sooo heavy! An impressive storm, too.
10 minutes from the hotel, and we are crossing to Brazil. We had to leave our comfy minibus for passport control and felt the heavy rain and huge puddles with a soaking run back to the van.
Crossing the bridge over the Iguazu river, the Argentinian side with bollards coloured blue and white, then halfway across, with the change of countries came the change of the bollards now green and red!
The guide pointing this out…… and the move from Spanish to Portuguese, tango to samba, Messi to Pele.
Argentina and Brazil are good neighbours, with much crossing of the border.
On the left was the fuzz that is Paraguay. So glad we saw it yesterday! Everyone goes there for cheap electronics.
The bridge from Brazil to Paraguay in the photos yesterday is the new route in, hopefully due to open soon.
And so to the falls. OMG, amazing! Whilst still raining, though not so heavy, it certainly did not distract from how amazing the falls were.
The first photos are the same falls we could see from the Argentinian side.
The final far U shape is the main part of the river of which the left half is Brazilian and the right half Argentinian. With perfect timing, the clouds lifted, and by time we were down at the base view, the spray we had been warned of that would get us wet was much less than the rain had been!
Amazing to see how the swifts hanging on to the rocks. They have a large wingspan, so large they struggle to stand like most birds.
A wet bus ride back…
And we were soon at the airport, this time the Brazilian side of Iguazu. A matching small airport to yesterday.
To follow, the smallest airport lounge we had ever been in. Not sure we’ve ever had self serve on the drinks before! Mark measures it is then!
Thankfully, it also means only minutes to the gate!
Not sure we’ve ever taxi’d that fast. An hour or so, and welcome to Sao Paolo…..
A few hours more, and we came in with a full tour over London. O2, Shard, Buckingham Palace, Wimbledon, and even spotted our car as had parked right by the landing lights!
Again pronounced without the G, meaning “water big”.
A very early wake up and internal flight, landing on the Argentinian side. A cute little airport like Manston with the bags ready before us.
The town is across the three countries of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay, each with their own version and spelling. This is the only place in the world with a town in three countries. Paraguay having two spellings of the name as they speak both Guarani and Spanish. Our hotel is in the Argentinian part of town and borders on to a community of indigenous Guarani people.
The Iguazu river is half in Argentina and half in Brazil and follows the border for some distance.
The tour took us to see all angles of the falls from the Argentinian side.
Wow. Let the photos do the talking.
Everyone we spoke to said we need to do the boat ride. There were three options on it. We definitely did the best and wettest. After a fab rapids ride and a chilled watch from below, we went under!
Our first shower was under this! And again and again!
The boat ride from Brazil does not let you in as close on this Argentinian side.
And this was the other one we went under. So glad they had someone filming it all for us!
The flora and fauna has been amazing too, with the highlight being a few toucans.
Here is the commemoration of the chap that found the falls and a cute lizard chilling on top!
The capuchin monkeys are so naughty, it’s the people eating lunch that need to be in the cage!
There were also many vultures swooping around. They also have cougars, pumas, and ocelots. Thankfully, not too many mosquitoes as there are enough predators among fish birds and insects.
Our naturalist guide was very impressed with the seek app and had to install herself!
Finally back to the room to discover toucans are clearly a thing here.
The evening was free, so we had to visit the three frontiers point, from where you can see both Brazil and Paraguay.
And another fab steak of course!
Back to the hotel and ended up 2 hours chatting with Anthony and Rachelle from the cruise. A fab pair of people (not couple) who booked the trip not knowing each other and have spent an amazing few weeks together!
On creation of 9th July avenue, only three buildings were left. A large mansion that is now the French embassy, the obelisk and this building where Eva Peron gave her resignation speech when she knew she was unwell. On the opposite side is a similar murial of her looking out smiling.
The Casa Rosada (Pink House) is the presidential palace, better know by some of us as the balcony the Perons waved from and the mention in “Oh what a circus”. You can see the size of Plaza de Mayo in front.
A little stroll round the area we dined in last night.
Cafe Tortoni. The oldest cafe in Buenos Aires, always with a queue outside.
Surprisingly for such a tourist place the menu was not in english!
The world just got smaller…… we had spotted a Del Amitri t-shirt on the cruise, and he turned out to be the chap selling their merch. Just ran into the couple again and, no he doesn’t know who the bonus signature we had a year ago is either (the one with the x beside)
Another tour, this time the city centre. There was a football game going on between the top two teams of the country, so every so often, you would hear a cheer. Thankfully the guide mentioned it at the start, otherwise others may have wondered what the noise was. We had a heads up as yesterday’s guide had mentioned he was likely to be ill and not take this tour!
Starting at the Congress building, of course the largest congress building in the world, designed based on Washington DC.
Buenos Aires, meaning good air, sits on the widest river in the world Río de la Plata. Argentina was named from the Latin for silver. Not that they found any, but that was the expectation.
We then headed down Avenue de Mayo, being the first avenue in the city, again by removal of blocks of buildings.
The avenue used to have the richest houses and hotels. With the Congress building, the presidential palace, the plazas and the avenue designed to all be in line, it also became the place for protests and therefore arostocrats moved away.
Barolo Palace was designed by Mario Palanti, who was obsessed with wanting to take care of Dante Alighieri’s ashes to take care of. Whilst he did not get them, he designed this building to pay homage to the Devine Comedy, recognising all of the various elements and numeric references and symbolism. The top part is of Indian design, and the very top has a lighthouse, only was so bright that it can only be used occasionally.
A matching building was constructed in Montevideo, however the owner wanted it to be taller, so it was by a meter.
There were only three sculptures of “the thinker” actually done by Rodin himself, one of which is here in the avenue.
Cafe Tortoni is also on Avenue de Mayo. It predates the avenue, however when they made the avenue, it just so happened to back on to it, so they moved the main entrance!
At one road crossing the avenue we had earlier seen and heard chaps calling “cambio”. The guide explained more about the position with currency. In the 90s, the exchange used to be 1 peso to 1 USD. People had bank accounts in both Peso and USD. The country, however, could not meet its debts and stepped up currency production at the same time converting all USD to peso, and in a couple of days, it was 3 peso to 1 USD. Also, a restriction of being only able to withdraw 200 peso in a day.
People then mistrusted the banks and thus the start of an official rate and an unofficial rate called the “blue dollar”. Cash is now kept under the sofa and credit does not exist. The largest note is 2000 peso, £2. You see people handing over wadges of notes to pay for things.
Our hotel has a famed rooftop bar. Not a bad view!
What a lovely city. We felt like we got to know it quite well in the time we had, though probably only scratched the surface.
Time for the next musical…..What’s new, Buenos Aires 🎶
With a 7.30 disembarkation, we left at 7.45 and were out at 8, in the hotel room by 9! Our hotel is on the main Avenue de 9 Julio, being the date of the country’s independence in 1816.
It is the widest avenue in the world. On opening it was 110m wide with 16 lanes. It now has a 140m span, with 18 lanes of traffic, and 4 bus lanes. Finished in 1960, they removed whole blocks of buildings to create it. At the time, there were not many cars around, so everyone thought it a silly idea. Now very useful!
And of all the people to run in to heading for the tour we were about to do….. Kirsty and Jonathon. The guys we chatted with most on the cruise. You may remember the very late night?
A great walking tour around the Retiro and Recoleta areas. Learnt much of the city and country. Some time ago they had a huge immigration of Italians and when you look at most famous Argentinians they all have Italian names. That certainly makes sense of the driving style and constant hooting!
They also have the 3rd largest Jewish community in the world.
The city is known as Paris of South America. As a young city with an influx of inhabitants, much was built late 19th and early 20th century primarily copied from France.
Many of the buildings are a mixture of styles.
On 100 years of independence, many countries gifted something. This was our gift, called the English Tower and nicknamed Big Ben of South America. Formally renamed to the Monumental Tower in the 80s to reduce the sudden increase in vandalism, when the British became less popular.
He did speak of the Islas Malvinas (Falklands) war, a huge failing of the final dictatorship, and whilst a terrible loss of young lives did at least pave the way for dictatorship to end.
Interestingly, the Malvinas monument is right by the English Tower.
The peso has been through a challenging time with inflation hitting 200% last year. Over the past 10 or so years, people keep their money as USD in order to not lose value on their funds. The new government have promised to tackle it and recent figures suggest it is starting to turn around.
Atlas supporting the oldest tree in Argentina, with a 60m diameter!
The tour ended up at the Recoleta cemetery, being the third most visited cemetery in the world.
And of course, home to Eva Peron.
An Argentinian steak had to be done for dinner in the beautiful Puerto Madero area. Certainly the place for your evening stroll with many stylish people strolling past (again, very italian). The steak arrived in style, too!
Not far from the cruise ship port, we even heard our ship leave on its next journey north!
An evening of classical music in Teatro Colon, with one of the best acoustics on the world, certainly declared by Pavorotti.
Back home passing the main monument on the avenue, designed/copied from America. This is the place of celebrations. There were 5 million people here and around when they won the World Cup.
This morning, a nice stroll along one of the long ramblas.
And of course a little break from the heat.
Strolled back through the main park and then the town.
The city is full of amazing buildings. Note the beautiful but bizarre building here, a copy of the original in Buenos Aires, only they wanted it taller, so an extra metre in height!
The sail away party was with NYC3 doing various Ed Sheeran, Bruno Mars etc. What’s better than great live music out in the sun on a cruise……. all of that and front row in the jacuzzi with cocktails!
An amazing boullabaise.
Suitcases packed and ready to go 😪
And this is another suitcase in another hall 🎶
….oops maybe a day too early for that one!
This evening’s show is our favourite 6 singers from the main cast doing a broadway set, well that’s bound to be a winner with us!
They also did a very good version of can’t help falling in love, however they said it was from a musical about Elvis?!
Of course, they hit Les Mis, and the arrangement and vocals were absolutely amazing!
Well, what else can they finish with other than……….. you can’t stop the beat! (Aka you can’t stop to breathe)
…..did we mention they do the show at 7 and 9…….erm might have watched it twice…oops!
So, second time…. where else would I expect to find Mark.. . . …oh, front row central! Obvs!
Thing is……apparently, I missed the warmup – Mark took a photo though! 🤷♀️
Lol 😍
It turns out 5 of the group are British, one of which from Kent. A little chat with them after and one of the chaps from NYC3.
Land ahoy….. finally!….. and front row tickets on docking.
We are now stopping here for a full day, night, and leaving tomorrow afternoon due to the strong winds. Punta del Este would require a tender.
Yes, that is Mark up on our balcony!
First stop, the Santiago Vazquez wetland for some bird time. Uruguay has a huge quantity of bird species.
A black-and-rufous warbling-finch
The full list:
Black-and-rufous warbling-finch
Chimango caracara
Common gallinule (moorhen)
Giant wood-rail
Great kiskadee
Great pampa-finch
Guira cuckoo
House sparrow
Monk parakeet – yes the ones we have!
Picazuro pigeon
Plumbeous rail
Rock pigeon
Rufous hornero – and it’s nest – aka ovenbird
Rufous-collared sparrow
Southern lapwing
White faced ibis – two long flying formations
White-winged coot
On the way there, the guide explained how some native birds are now finding they have all they need for food and not migrating. Much a reflection on something Milos had said.
Flowers are more adaptable than animals in that with a change from the expected temperature, they quickly react. The insects that then pollinate them are slower to react to a change in timing. However, over a period of time, they do so. The next to need to change their seasonal timing is the birds that feed on the insects.
We then headed in to town. Of course, we found and went up a tall building for a 360 view.
You can just see the ship in the distance.
And a cute little bar just behind the main tourist area.
The main square
The museum of art was impressive, to include a sarcophagus.
This seems to be a much less developed country. On the tour, we passed many slums, a noticeable number of people smoking, there was rubbish dumped even in the nature reserve, and a very interesting boat graveyard on the way in to docking!
One of the fastest growing cities in Patagonia with its elegant boulevard, stately buildings and sandy stretches of beachfront, a magnet for sun worshippers and eco-tourists. Sounds lovely………. or maybe not!
The previous day, we had our Commerson’s dolphin trip cancelled due to expected high winds.
Today, we were due to dock at 8 am. At 6.30, the port declared they were closed to all marine traffic as the winds were in the region of 50-60 mph.
Back to that spa then!
It is very rare to miss a docking like this. So glad it was today rather than cape horn or Ushuaia and that we had booked the penguin trip that day and not today’s trip!
The good news is that the wish to see Salvatore Hasard again came to fruition already. A bonus matinee in a rewrite of today’s schedules. Again, brilliant! A more than full theatre.
We also had a bonus talk with Milos. Short version – we are probably not alone!
In the words of Manuel, the cruise director….. we are somewhere!
By mid afternoon the clouds had lifted and another lovely sunset.
The evening’s entertainment was NYC3 with Shades of Buble. Three chaps putting their own spin on Buble tracks, well, as he is a bit of a karaoke artist, more like a few Buble tracks and a pile of other old classics. Very good! They finished with the best ever version I have heard of UB40’s (apparently that declares me still young!) “can’t help falling in love”, being a personal favourite as I had written an arrangement as part of my music GSCE final exam.
A very interesting talk on weather from Milos to start the day off. Quite in the rhythm of his daily talks after breakfast.
A little chill in the Persian Garden…….. heated tiled seats with a view, and steam room and sauna, then the outdoor jacuzzi has to be done. A little chilly on the run to and from, but worth it, and it means you have it to yourself!
A cape is a peninsular sticking out in to the sea, ie on mainland. This is on an island.
It is also not where the Atlantic meets the Pacific as many write ups suggest. They both join the Southern Ocean, aka the Antarctic Ocean. Also, being a collection of islands, there is free movement of water all around, so there is no such meeting of oceans.
This is the furthest south we have ever been, at 56°south, a whole 10° further south than the bottom of New Zealand. Interestingly, it is a similar distance from the equator to Edinburgh, and of course, we have been much further north.
The weather and waters around Cape Horn are notoriously hazardous, with strong winds, large waves, strong currents and icebergs, and many ships have been wrecked here.
In 1992, a sculpture was created to remember those lost attempting to “round the horn.” The gap in the middle is a shape of an albatross, which are plentiful here. These huge, graceful, soaring birds have joined us all of the way so far.
In vast contrast to its notoriety, we had absolutely lovely weather and hardly any wind or waves.
Apparently, they often don’t get to go to the cape on this cruise. I believe we are only the second time in the season, and we are the end of the season! They also decided to open up the helipad at the front for us to go on to for the view.
Firstly, we fully circumnavigated clockwise, then we came in for a closer view of the lighthouse, giving all areas of the ship a good view.
The rest of the day at sea. Finally a chance to sit down with this one, in a very chilled lounge with a view.
Now we are heading north we are on sunsets from our balcony. Not a bad one to start!
This evening’s show is Salvatore Hasard, a guy from Chile who’s mum was Italian and his Dad French. He plays guitar, piano, sax, harmonica, and drums and sings in english in every range from Tom Jones to Cindi Lauper. His signature piece was doing all 21 voices of “we are the world”. Brilliant! Would love to watch him again.
To finish the evening, a 60s celebration opened by the entertainers with “welcome to the 60s” from Hairspray dancing down the main staircase. Brilliant!
